Manchester
& the Northwest Region of England
Papillon
Graphics' Virtual Encyclopaedia of Greater Manchester
Including
Bolton, Bury, Manchester, Oldham, Rochdale, Salford, Stockport, Tameside,
Trafford & Wigan
The
northwest region of England has a long tradition in speciality
dishes and local delicacies. Many are as popular as they ever
were and some, rather sadly, have been gradually forgotten. Here
are a few of them:
Listed
alphabetically:
Bakewell
Tart
Bakewell
is actually in Derbyshire, but as a noteworthy northern delicacy,
it was decided to add it here.
Thought to have originated as a kitchen accident, when in
1820 Mrs Greaves, landlady of the Whitehorse Inn in Bakewell,
instructed her cook to make a pudding. However, when the inexperienced
cook poured an egg mixture onto a jam base set in a thin pastry
case, it resulted in a flat tart, and not the risen pudding
as was intended. However, it was thought to be so delicious
that Mrs Greaves ordered her cooks to continue making it that
way and the recipe became a popular local (and now international)
favourite.
Barm
Cakes
A bread
roll, or bap, made from wholemeal flour - also called 'flour
cakes'. They are soft and pliable, with a pitted texture. 'Barm'
is an old Lancashire word for the froth on liquid that contains
yeast.
Blackpool
Rock
Blackpool
Rock can still be seen being rolled and made on the seafront
at Blackpool. Actually, most seaside resorts sell rock that
is still made in Blackpool on the Fylde Coast of Lancashire.
A hard sugar slightly minted confection rolled into long lengths
and cut into 30 cm pieces, distinctive on account of the lettering
that traditionally runs throughout the whole length (eg. 'Blackpool
Rock', 'Rhyl Rock', etc). Very popular at the seaside, especially
with young children.
Bury Black
Pudding
Made
from congealed pig's blood and oatmeal and produced widely throughout
the region, with Bury boasting probably the most famous, with
its traditional methods of making the delicacy going well back
into the 19th century. Bury Black Puddings win international awards.
It is still purchased in a hot boiled form on many local markets,
and eaten locally as a takeaway snack (much as fish and chips
in paper might be) and dowsed with liberal amounts of malt vinegar.
Further south it tends to be thinly sliced and fried as part of
a mixed grill.
Black Pudding
Cheshire Cheese
The Eccles Cake
Hollands Pies
Lancashire Hotpot
Potted Shrimps
Bury
Simnel Cake
Simnel
Cakes are found all over Britain, but a particular variety
was once commonly made in Bury
Cheshire
Cheese
Said
to have acquired its flavour from the abundance of salt
marshes throughout the county of Cheshire, Britain's oldest
known cheese, having been mentioned in the Domesday Book
of 1086. A crumbly, nutty cheese, originally made in Chester,
but now made throughout the county
Cheshire
Pork Pie
The
original Cheshire pork 'pye' was made from the mid-18th
century from cuts of pork loin, seasoned with nutmeg and pepper
and sweetened with sugar. White wine and butter were then added
in liberal quantities and the whole mixture cooked in pastry.
Chester
Pudding
Similar
in many ways to many other steamed suet puddings, but with the
addition of blackcurrant jam.
Chorley
Cakes
Similar
to Eccles Cakes but generally larger and flatter and without
the glazed sugary top. Thought to originate, (logically), in
Chorley.
Cumberland
Sausages
Made in
Cumberland, (formerly in Lancashire, now absorbed into the County
of Cumbria). A long slightly spiced rough chopped coiled pork
sausage, traditionally sold by length rather than weight, and
can be over a metre long.
Eccles
Cakes
Possibly
first made commercially and sold in 1793 by one James Birch
in his bakers shop in Eccles, probably based on an earlier recipe
for her so-called "sweet patties" by Mrs Elizabeth
Raffald in her cookery book of 1769. Made with shiny topped
flaky pastry and filled with dried fruits, sugar and spice.
Proprietary brands are to be avoided as they bear little resemblance
to the real thing - available at good local bakers. A round
fruit filled pastry with three distinctive slashes on its top
which is brushed with egg and dowsed in sugar prior to baking.
So scrumptious was it thought to be that it was banned by the
Puritans, but locals continued to make and eat them in secret!
So called due to originating in Eccles (now part of the Metropolitan
Borough of Salford).
Everton
Mints
A sweet
toffee flavoured with a hint of lemon invented by one Molly
Bush in Everton, (Liverpool) in the mid-nineteenth century.
Fisherman's
Friends
The company
manufacturing "Fisherman's Friends" was established
in 1865, and is now claimed to be the largest producer of lozenges
in the world. It began when local Fleetwood pharmacist James
Lofthouse created an extremely strong liquid linctus of menthol
and eucalyptus, which helped relieve problems experienced by
fishermen in the frequently freezing conditions encountered
in the Irish Sea. To make it easier to transport and to administer
he converted this linctus into small lozenges, which were popular
with the local fishermen for their evident efficacy. It is reported
that they soon began referring to the miracle lozenges as their
“friends” and soon the now world-famous "Fisherman's
Friend" came into being. Over 4 billion Fisherman's Friend
lozenges are consumed around the world every year, manufactured
still by the family run business from their factory in Fleetwood,
Lancashire.
Goosnargh
Cakes
So-called
due to originating in the Lancashire village of that name, (near
Preston) a cake, more biscuit-like, flavoured with caraway seeds
and sold around Easter and Whitsuntide.
Hindle
Wakes
Hindle Wakes
was a very ancient Lancashire dish of exotically stuffed boiled
poultry. The recipe is thought to have been brought by Flemish
weavers to Bolton-le-Moor, (Bolton), in 1337. The original recipe
used the blood of the fowl for binding the stuffing mix. The
night before the fowl was stuffed with a mixture of prunes,
nuts, suet, spices and red wine, then simmered slowly until
tender. The next day the bird was removed from the stock, coated
with a lemon and cream sauce and decorated with prunes and lemon
slices and served cold. The name of the dish may derive from
'Hen de la Wake' ... in Lancashire dialect a 'wake' was
a fair, at which time the dish may have been eaten.
Holland's
Pies
Baxenden
in the Rossendale Valley of Lancashire is the Home of the famous
Holland's Pies and was first sold from their shop in Haslingden
in 1851. Still manufactured to traditional recipes, and including
steak pies, cheese & onion, steak & kidney pies, meat
& potato pies, steak puddings, etc, and nowadays found in
virtually every supermarket.
Lancashire
Cheese
The softest
of the hard English cheeses - its white crumbly texture and
full, slightly salty taste makes it an excellent cheese in cooking,
and especially favoured for Welsh Rarebit.
Lancashire
Hotpot
The
meat stew known as Lancashire Hotpot probably originated in the
cotton towns of Lancashire as a simple dish quickly prepared and
slow cooked, similar to Irish Stew. So named after the straight-sided
brown dish in which it was cooked - the 'hotpot'. At one time,
even oysters were included in the recipe. Traditionally, mill
worker's wives would prepare it in the morning, and leave it in
the oven all day so that it would be ready when the family returned
home from work at the mill - there are several other possible
origins, but this seems most probable. Usually eaten with pickled
red cabbage as an accompaniment. Tradition had it that a woman's
ability to make a good hotpot was of paramount importance and
considerably enhanced her marriage prospects. Some accounts have
it as a dish often eaten by shepherds on the hills and others
that it was a dish prepared for pitworkers.
Lobscouse
Or
simply 'Scouse', a popular Merseyside dish, somewhat like a mixture
of Irish Stew and a Scandinavian stew called 'Lobscaus',
from where it probably got its name. Hence, 'scousers'
became a widespread nickname for anybody from Liverpool.
Manchester
Tart (or Manchester Pudding)
Manchester
Tart is thought to be a variation on the original manchester
Pudding, made from breadcrumbs, milk, sugar, eggs, damson Jam
and lemon juice. The recipe was first published by Mrs Beeton
in her book "Household Management". It comprises
a set custard slice in shortcrust pastry and a hidden layer
of jam underneath. Served with lashings of hot custard, it was
very popular in school dinners of the 1940s and 1950s.
Meat &
Potato Pie
A firm local
favourite, available from most fish & chip shops. Mostly
potato and shortcrust pastry filled with stewed shin beef, onions
and a thick beef gravy.
Nodding
Pudding
Sometimes
spelt 'knodding' or even 'nodden'. An old Lancashire
dish made from poatoes and flour. Information is sketchy, but
it appears to have consisted of mashed potato mixed with flour
and butter, and baked in a pie tin until it developed a crust.
It may have been a way of using up leftover potatoes, similar
to the way that "bubble and squesk" arose.
Parched
Peas
Sometimes
called "Black Peas", long soaked overnight and simmered
slow to produce a type of mushy pea, popular in Bolton, and traditionally
sold a funfairs. 'Parching' was an old term for long slow
boiling.
Parkin
A dark sweet
cake made from oatmeal instead of flour. A heavy sticky cake
due to the liberal addition of black treacle, that sometimes
contains candied fruits. Traditionally eaten round the bonfire
on Guy Fawkes Night, the 5th of November. Sometimes served with
a thin sliver of Lancashire Cheese.
Potted
Shrimps
Netted,
peeled, cooked and potted near to the treacherous sands of Morecambe
Bay where they are caught, and famous for being the best potted
shrimps in the UK.
Rag
Pie (or Pudding)
A rag pie
is made of suet and meat, and in many ways resembles a steak
pudding except that it has a limp pastie shape. Favoured in
many parts of Lancashire and Rochdale and still available at
local butchers shops... (I eat one myself occasionally, supplied
by a friend in Haslingden - quite delicious!). There are references
to it in Victorian times, when the pie (or pudding) clearly
had humbler and less savoury beginnings - the following excerpt
describes it being served up in an orphanage (Mr Bogryne's establishment):
"There
was a dreadful pie for dinner every Monday; a meat pie with
... horrible lumps of gristle inside, and such strings of
sinew, alternated by lumps of flabby fat. We called it kitten
pie—resurrection pie—rag pie—dead man’s
pie. We cursed it by night, we cursed it by day: we wouldn’t
stand it, we said; we would write to our friends; we would
go to sea. Old Bogryne kept Giggleswick seven hours (sitting)
on a form with the pie before him; but Giggleswick held out
bravely, and would not taste of the accursed food. He (Bogryne)
never ate any of the pie himself".
(Gaslight
and Daylight, by George Augustus Sala, 1859 - How I Went to
Sea )
Rossendale
Sarsaparilla (Sasparilla or Sarsparilla)
Sarsaparilla,
an old and once very popular non-alcoholic root beer-type beverage,
is still brewed to a well-kept secret recipe, and sold at Fitzpatrick's
Herbal Health Shop in Rawtenstall, Rossendale.
Sad
cakes
Similar
to the Eccles and Chorley Cakes but larger, and popular in the
Rossendale Valley - known by local children sometimes as 'desolate
cakes'. Alternative forms often mix the dried fruit into the
pastry and present it in an envelope shape.
Tatie 'ash
or Tater Hash (Potato Hash)
Boiled
potatoes, chopped onions and corned beef stewed long in butter
and milk. When cooked, potatoes are mashed (or hashed). Traditionally
served as a nourishing main course accompanied by red cabbage
or pickled beetroot.
Tripe
& Onions
Somewhat
out of favour nowadays, tripe is the lining of a cow's stomach,
traditionally served with onions. Smooth tripe comes from the
first of a cow's stomachs, and so-called honeycomb tripe is
from the second stomach and is considered to be the superior
version. Cleaned and boiled to a milky white colour, it is usually
cut into strips and soaked in milk with onions for several hours
prior to eating. Until relatively recent times, Tripe and Cowheels
shops were a common sight in the northwest - now, sadly, all
but disappeared.
Uncle
Joe's Mint Balls
William
Santus & Comoany have been making making sweets in Wigan
since 1898 and their mint balls were first introduced in October
1932. A popular regional favourite, they are said to be made
from 100% natural ingedients and contain no artificial additives
or colours, are gluten-free and suitable for vegetarians and
vegans.
Vimto
The story
of Vimto began in 1908 when one John Noel Nichols created a
unique and original blend of fruit, herbs and spices in his
premises in Manchester. Originally he called it "Vim Tonic"
(supposedly to give the drinker vim and vigour as a general
tonic), but it soon became a popular drink and the name was
shortened to 'Vimto'. By 1920 it had become so popular nationwide,
that the company had to move its production out of the city
centre to Old Trafford. By 1930 it was being exported to over
30 different countries, and its name has become internationally
famous. In 1964 it was first sold in its present-day red, white
and blue striped cans.
NOTE:
We appreciate that this is not an exhaustive list, but would welcome
any suggestions on additions - please name and describe the dish
that you suggest and tell us something about it that will be informative
to other readers.